You should also first play around with the monitor's settings to get a general idea of what they do. I assume 10-bit panels and the graphics cards for that will behave nicer) (those two examples are really only for 8-bit color stuff.
![dig dug arrangement sprites dig dug arrangement sprites](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/FhxtfJo301A/hqdefault.jpg)
#Dig dug arrangement sprites full
The issue is that to do that, you are cutting off a bit of the green and some more of the blue channel, you only get the full possible 256 steps of the red channel. (2) If you want 6500K temperature but start with 7500K, things for the whitepoint are again fine as the calibration process will force it to 6500K. Instead of the full 256 steps of black->grays->white, you only use about 75% of those, because the calibration stops somewhere around step 192 to be able to show 120 cd/m² on your 160 cd/m² screen. You also lose some of the resolution for the color channels. The issue is that with the display being set brighter than needed, the blackpoint won't be as black as it could be.
![dig dug arrangement sprites dig dug arrangement sprites](https://www.spriters-resource.com/resources/sheets/35/37340.png)
(1) If you want 120 cd/m² but start with 160 cd/m², this is no problem for the whitepoint itself as the calibration process will force it to 120 cd/m². The software might have some feature that helps you with this, for example a guide that runs before the calibration process where it continually measures a spot on the screen while you play around in the monitor's menu, then tells you how close you are to what you want. If you for example want 120 cd/m² brightness and 6500K color temperature for the white point, you should try to get the monitor as close as possible to that just by using its menu. You are supposed to configure your monitor so that it already comes as close as possible to what you want to calibrate for.